Tourism officials promote Portugal’s capital as “the capital of cool.” That’s not what keep me returning, though. Originally published in US Airways Magazine. I PAUSE TO CATCH MY BREATH. I’ve just climbed the 90 steps leading from downtown Lisbon to the hillside district of Mouraria, and it feels a bit like a homecoming. With its Escher-like labyrinth […]
Venice is filled with surprises tourists rarely see—like Luca Faé’s Fruit Boat at 5 a.m. Originally published in US Airways Magazine. THE NIGHT VAPORETTO PULLS UP AT 4:20 A.M. With a single fluid motion, the slender conductor in thick rubber gloves hitches her line to our floating pier, pulls the boat close, and slides open a metal […]
The Wadden Islands are environmental jewels—and easy to pedal. Originally published in Attaché. FROM WHERE I SIT ON MY BICYCLE, the dunes of Terschelling Island look less like sand structures and more like well-decorated woolly mammoths. Covered in luxurious marram grass, adorned with the orange berries of the rowan tree, and layered in the subtle purple of […]
Cádiz, Spain is one of Europe’s oldest cities—but its biggest appeal is the here and now. Originally published in Attaché. IT’S TWO O’CLOCK IN THE MORNING on the Wednesday of Carnaval, and in Barrio de La Viña only the tiniest babies are asleep. Throughout the fishermen’s quarter of Cádiz, Spain, every restaurant and grocery has converted itself into a sidewalk […]
The author, stuttering in Spanish with a group of 20-year-old street kids. An all-time favorite.